These pepper varieties offer low maintenance, strong yields and great flavor and/or heat.They have a unique flavor and have been bred to grow in a variety of interesting sizes and colors.We love the perfect heat level, the thick, crunchy walls, and the respectable plant yields.Though yields can sometimes be hit or miss depending on variety, you can’t beat the jalapeno’s low maintenance and great flavor.The jalapeno is a true superstar in the hot pepper world, lending itself well to poppers, pickled chips, and powders.These jalapeno types each have a beautiful, unique color when fully ripe.Serranos offer a bit more heat in a smaller size than jalapenos.Serrano peppers are slender and long, turning from green to bright red when fully ripe.They are usually picked when bright green, and they are super easy to grow at home!Fun fact: Serrano peppers seem to be more disease and pest resistant than other varieties.Give the plants enough light, water and fertilizer, and you will have dozens of serrano peppers, early in the season.If you are looking for a bit more heat, step up to the cayenne pepper, which is similarly productive and easy to grow.The Capsicum chinense species of pepper all share a similar floral aroma, and habaneros are perfectly balanced.We found that the ‘Snow White’ habanero pepper was extremely productive and easy to maintain.We like to freeze our habaneros and other hot varieties and use them throughout the year to make sauce.Hot, sweet, fragrant, easy to grow and highly productive, what more could you want?If you can handle the heat level, we highly recommend growing these easy pepper plants in your garden!Who knew that one of the world’s hottest peppers is so simple to cultivate at home!If you’re looking for serious heat and high yields, browse the various ghost pepper varieties.You can expect to wait 90-100 days after planting outdoors before you get your first ripe pepper.Our red, chocolate, peach, and yellow ghost pepper plants each produced dozens of ripe pods from early July through to the end of the season.With enough soil for the roots to spread out, these plants can pump out a ton of peppers, and fast!One day you’ll pull back the leaves and find dozens of fresh peppers ready for harvest.Fun fact: Shishitos eventually turn red when fully ripened, but are typically picked green for frying or pickling.While bell peppers are common in grocery stores, they can easily be grown in your own back yard.With a seemingly endless number of bell pepper types, you can pick and choose the best variety for your tastes.Medium sized pods loosely resemble bananas when they are young due to their often curved shape and yellow color.Fun fact: When banana peppers ripen, they turn from yellow to orange and finally red!If you can’t provide this much sun, the plants will still grow, but may yield fewer peppers.Plants require plenty of nitrogen when growing leaves, and phosphorus when producing peppers.I hope you found some new pepper varieties to grow in your garden this year!If you’re up for a bit more of a challenge in the future, check out some of these bizarre pepper varieties that you can try growing. .
The 8 Best Peppers to Grow in your Garden
If you want to add a touch of homegrown heat to your summertime recipes, here’s a list of our favorite peppers to grow in a home garden.By cooking the Habanero pepper, it will help mellow out the heat and bring out the sweet flavor, but don’t let your guard down!This beautiful dark green, almost black, pepper, is a mild chili that is the perfect complement to its hotter counterparts.If you’re planning to dry your Poblano harvest to make ancho chilis, leave the peppers on the vine until they are bright red in color.The Jalapeno pepper can reach maturity in as little as 75 days, perfect for gardeners in northern climates with shorter growing seasons.At harvest time, they are a brilliant green color, but can be left on the vine until red,which will mellow out the heat profile a bit.Growing a skinny fruit that reaches one to two inches in length, Cayenne peppers are fast producers, hitting maturity about two and a half months after sprouting.You don’t need to be living on a Caribbean island to grow Scotch Bonnets, the pepper that helped make “jerk” food famous around the world.When the neighborhood block party or local chili cook-off comes around, you’ll have a fully stocked arsenal of hot pepper to really turn up the heat. .
Peppers have a naturally upright growth habit, so they often benefit from staking, which keeps brittle branches from breaking when they become heavy with fruit.Gardeners in hot climates may need to be patient with big bells and sweet roasting peppers, which often wait until nights become longer and cooler in late summer to load up with fruit.The wait will go by faster if you have less flashy (yet phenomenally productive) banana peppers to combine with tomatoes and basil in cool summer salads while bigger varieties slowly load up with fruits. .
6 Tips for Growing Peppers
Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you reap your best pepper crop ever, whether you’re starting with your own transplants or planting ones you bought at your local garden center.Excessive nitrogen can cause the pepper plants to grow too fast, making them more susceptible to disease and less productive.Peppers like warmth, so wait to plant until nighttime temperatures have consistently reached 60 degrees and all danger of frost has passed.Space the plants 12 to 20 inches apart, depending on the mature size of the variety, and set them a bit deeper than they were in their containers.Stake or cage taller varieties so that the stems do not break in strong winds or due to a heavy fruit load.Throughout the growing season, make sure your pepper plants receive at least an inch of water a week.Check the peppers often during periods of extreme heat and drought, when each plant can easily take a gallon of water a day.You can harvest the peppers at their immature green or purple stage, but the flavor will be sweeter if you wait for them to reach their mature color — usually red, but sometimes golden yellow or orange.Italian fryers, jalapenos, and Cubanelles are possible exceptions: Many people prefer the flavor of these peppers when they are full size but still green.This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. .
Provide a sandy loam soil that drains well and contains plenty of organic matter.You must add 8-10 weeks for the time between sowing and transplanting which means most of us will be starting pepper plants indoors in January or February!Peppers were grown extensively in Central and South America, Mexico, and the West Indies long before birth of Christ.Most pepper seeds sprout in about a week at a temperature of 70-80 degrees F., but germination can be spotty depending on variety.As soon as the pepper seeds sprout, carefully plant them in individual containers such as pea pots.When the first true leaves develop, move the plants to a sunny southern window until you can transplant them into the garden.If you'd rather not start seedlings, you can order plants from Burpee which will arrive shortly before transplanting time or purchase peppers at a local garden center.To maintain a proper balance, before transplanting, work some organic matter into the soil to enhance moisture retention.This tends to make the pepper plants develop lush foliage at the expense of fruit production.To get an early start with your peppers, particularly in the North, cover the prepared bed with a dark colored polyethylene mulch at least a week before transplanting.This will heat the soil beneath and provide a better growing condition for young pepper plants.The same pests and diseases that plague other members of the Nightshade family (tomatoes, potatoes, and eggplants), however, will occasionally attack peppers.Destructive caterpillars like cutworms, tomato hornworms, and borers are easily controlled with Bacillus thuringensis (BT or Thuricide).Rotenone and pyrethrum will readily handle pepper maggots and weevils, leaf miners, flea beetles, and aphids.Plant disease-resistant pepper varieties, especially if anthracnose, mosaic, and bacterial spot are a problem in your area.Weeds provide a refuge for garden pests and can also spread fungi and viruses to nearby healthy pepper plants.The traditional bell pepper, for example, is harvested green, even though most varieties will mature red, orange, or yellow.Also, when picking peppers, refrain from tugging on the fruit, which may break off a branch or even uproot the entire plant.The flavor is retained, however, so use frozen peppers primarily for adding 'spice' to soups, stews, and sauces.Capsaicin, the chemical that provides the 'heat' in a hot pepper, is in a volatile oil that can actually burn your fingers.When handling hot peppers use latex or plastic gloves and make sure not to touch any part of your body, particularly your eyes or mouth. .
Easy-to-Grow Sweet Peppers
If you already enjoy growing bell peppers, consider making room in your garden for a specialty variety next season.For example, you could try the sweet little snack peppers that kids love or Japanese shishitos, which are great for tempura.‘Corno di Toro’ types are perhaps the most delicious of all sweet peppers, suitable for salads, roasting, or sautéing.Pepper seeds germinate and grow slowly, so plan on starting them at least eight weeks before the weather is settled and the danger of frost has passed in your area.Immediately water the seedlings with a high-phosphorous, organically approved, fish-based fertilizer solution to reduce transplant shock and get them off to a good start.Plastic mulch and row covers result in faster growth and earlier crops.Remove the row covers when daytime temperatures reach 85°F to prevent blossom drop.Fertile, well-irrigated soils are best for peppers, but excessive nitrogen can cause plants to produce lots of leafy growth and very few fruits.While it is not always necessary to stake peppers, be aware that unstaked plants may lodge (lie on the ground), putting fruits in contact with soil or mulch, where they are more susceptible to rot (above).Drip irrigation is an efficient way to supply water, and it keeps leaves dry, reducing the likelihood of foliar disease.Consult your local cooperative extension agent for specific information about pests in your area.Cutworms can be controlled by placing paper collars around the seedlings or with products containing Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), such as Dipel®.Infected leaves have small brown spots that enlarge to ¼ inch and sometimes merge together to form larger lesions.In severe cases, the pepper plants defoliate, which causes the loss of the entire crop.Blossom end rot is caused by an inadequate uptake of calcium when the fruits are actively growing.Regular irrigation can also help, as fluctuating moisture levels increase the likelihood of blossom end rot.The small fruits are not as blocky as main-season bells, but ‘Ace’ is a very reliable producer, especially in cool climates where peppers are harder to grow.It performs well in most parts of the country except the far north and has resistance to three types of bacterial leaf spot.Fruits range from 2 to 3 inches long, produced abundantly by large, upright plants.In Japan, shishitos are almost always cooked green, but thinly sliced red fruits are perfect for adding color and a little sweetness to salads and coleslaws. .
Growing Peppers from Seed for Beginners
The willingness to dedicate time to nurture that seedling, and care for it as it matures, can reward you with amazing fruits.I don’t have a greenhouse and I only grow a handful of different pepper plants each year, like 5 – 10.I also don’t have garden space, so all my plants grow in containers outdoors once they are ready and it’s warm enough outside.If you don’t want to wait too long for germination, Capsicum Annuum’s are probably the easiest to grow.These include jalapeños, serranos, cayennes, Thai peppers, Anaheim, Hatch, poblano, many ornamentals and more.Chinense species, which include the super hots, habaneros, scotch bonnets, etc., tend to have slower germination times and higher soil temperature requirements (75oF-90oF).Just keep in mind that the germination process can be slow and irregular as the degree of dormancy (or in other words, how long it takes those seeds to wake up and grow) varies considerably between species.Most pepper seeds sprout in about a week at a temperature of 70-80 degrees F., but germination can be spotty depending on the variety.So I pop the seeds in shot glasses with warm water (shown below) overnight and then plant in the morning.And they come with the greenhouse dome, which is great for getting seeds to sprout quickly in a normal home environment in the winter.Once the pellets are ready, pull back the mesh on the top and dig about a 1/4″ deep hole.Myco Blast naturally enriches the soil producing stronger healthier seedlings.Chile seeds require moisture and warmth to break their dormancy (meaning sprout).Just be aware that the germination process can be slow and irregular as the degree of dormancy varies considerably between species.I place my seed trays on a Seedling Heat Mat to help with the germination process.It warms up the soil and I’ve found that my plants sprout far faster with the use of a heating mat.Spritz the seedlings with water if the soil starts to turn a light brown.For the left pod, go ahead and pick your favorite, because they are all strong, but only one can take up that space.I typically use Kellogg Patio Plus found at Home Depot since my peppers are grown in containers.Epsom salt keeps the plant foliage strong and prevents light green to yellow leaves from developing.Pour the mixture into a spray bottle and then spritz the leaves and stems with the solution until thoroughly covered.I add Myco Blast to the seed pods right after planting once a week until the first set of true leaves appear (then switch to regular fertilizer).Your plants have been in a controlled indoor climate, with no wind, extreme sunshine or cold nights to deal with.Hardening off is the process of gradually allowing your young plants to slowly get used to outdoor conditions.Keep in mind the soil will dry faster outdoors due to sun and wind so water more frequently.Here is a basic schedule to start with: Set them outdoors the first day for 1/2 hour in just partial sunlight in an area protected from the wind.Plants should be 6-10 weeks old with dark green color, thick stems, and no blooms.Wait until the last frost date for your zone has passed and nighttime temperatures are above 50° F, and your seedlings are hardened.I’ve used a few different containers; regular pots, home depot buckets, the EarthBox, and the City Pickers raised garden bed kits.They are very similar, but a couple of the wheels snapped off on my City Picker Box first year, and my EarthBox, which I’ve had longer, is still going strong.Once emptied and washed out, pots should be soaked in a solution of 1 part household bleach and 9 parts water for about 10-20 minutes, and then rinsed and soaked in clean water to remove any bleach residue that remains.These soils typically have a mix of peat moss, some sort of bark, perlite, & dolomitic limestone.I do stake many of my pepper plants to give them added support once they start growing taller.This is a result of too much moisture and is a common white mold you find on top of potting soil.Gnats love moisture and are attracted to fruits, so it’s no surprise that they often infest kitchens.I have several fruit trees in the backyard so gnats always find their way into the house and love to hang out on my pepper plants while they are growing indoors.Gnats find the scent of apple cider vinegar very attractive (and wine… I’m always trying to keep them out of my wine glass).Typically that’s enough for me, but if you have a good amount of gnats you can set up a larger trap in a Mason jar.Put apple cider vinegar into the jar, like the bottom 3 inches should be good. .
How to Grow Hot Peppers: Tips for a Bountiful and Spicy Harvest
That’s why it’s time to explore and grow your own gorgeous hot peppers, from some that are just a little spicy to others that are the hottest on Earth.The beautiful thing that people forget about hot peppers is that there are so many varieties, and gardeners have lots of options to grow the spiciness they prefer.The best way to narrow down which hot pepper to grow is to see where they fall on the Scoville heat units (SHU) scale.Burpee has a new, fiery pepper for 2021 named the Armageddon that can be harvested sooner than Carolina Reaper, but still has a volcanic 1.3 million SHUs.Burpee has a new, fiery pepper for 2021 named the Armageddon that can be harvested sooner than Carolina Reaper, but still has a volcanic 1.3 million SHUs.It has the fruity flavor of habanero pepper (which you’ve possibly never experienced because of the intense heat).These include ancho, serrano, heirloom fish peppers, Hungarian wax, hot lemon, cayenne and tabasco.These less intense hot peppers are great for eating fresh in salsas and other dishes, or to stuff, fry or pickle.Buying seedlings or young plants from a nursery is always an option, though you won’t have as wide a variety to select from.The soil must drain well so that no water will pool around the roots, and should have organic matter or compost worked in before the plants are added.Watering: Once your hot pepper plants are transplanted and settled, it’s important to keep the soil moist.While the capsaicin in hot peppers isn’t lethal for pets, it can cause gastrointestinal issues, as well as being painful if eaten.Hot peppers can be planted with other vegetables, flowers or herbs (as part of a lovely edible landscape).Or you can wait until peppers mature, which depending on the type is when they’re red, yellow, orange, purple or brown.To protect your skin from the hot pepper burn, wear gardening gloves to harvest and handle them.Don’t pull the peppers from the plants (this could tear and damage stems), instead cut them with scissors or gardening shears.However, waiting longer between waterings, which stresses the plant, seems to increase the heat of peppers that are just beginning to set.An example: jalapenos that are fully ripened and bright red are the key ingredient in fiery sriracha sauce. .