Shop for crisp, bright green leaves with no dark, bruised patches or yellowing.Remove the stems before washing (see the photo above right); discard them or save them to add to a vegetable stock.To clean spinach, swish in a basin of cold water, let sit for a minute, and then lift into a colander to drain. .
When Should You Cut the Stems Off Leafy Greens?
But some of our favorite vegetables have quite prominent stems, which brings up the question: Are you supposed to eat those things, or trim them?To remove them, hold onto the stem and run your other hand down the length, stripping the leaves right off. .
Are spinach stems poisonous?
Separate the stems from your fresh spinach before you wash and prepare your greens.You can save the stems you remove for vegetable stock if that’s something you make yourself, or you can simply discard them. .
How to De-Stem Spinach
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Eating the whole spinach
Like most of the other greens, we had been clipping the spinach to add to dishes, so that it resembled the form of the plant, or more so it’s leaves that we were used to cooking.Thus began my love affair and rediscovery of spinach, and a shift in how I think of serving and showcasing vegetables to highlight their individuality.Just because a turnip or a beet has stems and greens attached to it doesn’t mean you should just throw the whole thing into a pot and cook it all at once.As the season progresses, the spinach’s stems and leaves grow larger and you may want to use a different preparation for them or may need to serve them with a sharp knife, like you would a piece of meat.This is pretty self explanitory, trim the ends, wash and dry the spinach, inspecting the base for debris.a tablespoon of white wine chicken or vegetable stock, for steaming the greens Instructions In a wide pan, like a 10 inch saute, heat the cooking oil over medium heat with the garlic until the garlic is brown, toasty, and aromatic, be careful not to burn it.Add the spinach to the pan and cook for one minute, stirring occasionally to coat with the garlic flavored oil.Taste and adjust the salt as needed, then remove the spinach to a serving plate and drizzle with the finishing oil, squeezes of fresh lemon, and maybe a little crushed red pepper. .
How to Grow Spinach The Right Way
It produces huge yields of nutritious, delicious green leaves that are a worldwide staple in salads and most dishes you can whip up in the kitchen. But do you know how to grow spinach?Not only is it a phenomenal food, but it’s reasonably easy to grow, provided that you follow a few basic steps.So let’s talk about how to grow spinach, and the best ways to produce a big supply of this nutritional powerhouse!Common Name Spinach Scientific Name Spinacea oleracia Germination Time 8-15 days Days to Harvest 40ish, varies by variety Light Full sun to part shade Water About 1” per week Temperature Cool-season, 60-75 degrees preferred Humidity Can tolerate some humidity Soil Well-draining, alkaline soil Fertilizer High nitrogen fertilizer and compost Pests Flea beetles, spider mites, aphids, cutworms, armyworms, leafminers, slugs, snails Diseases Downy mildew, powdery mildew, white rust, anthracnose, cercospora leaf spot, spinach blight, fusarium wilt.Believed to have originated in ancient Persia, it rapidly spread from there to India, then China, and then throughout most of the world.Savoy types tend to have a crinkled or curled leaf shape, and work beautifully for fresh eating.Buy Seeds Escalade 43 days Mild flavor, upright habit, mildew resistance, and a reluctance to bolt.Buy Seeds America 43 days Thick green leaves perfect for freezing, canning, or fresh use.Buy Seeds Akarenso 50 days Slightly serrated Japanese spinach variety with red-purple stems.Buy Seeds Renegade 42 days Succulent, round dark green leaves.Buy Seeds Carmel 25 days Quick-growing, very uniform spinach with high downy mildew resistance.Buy Seeds Okame 50 days Slow to bolt and can take hotter temperatures.While not an actual spinach, it has a spinach-like flavor to its leaves and can tolerate hot weather extremely well.More commonly known as red lamb’s quarter or goosefoot, this particular plant produces edible leaves.Early spring and in the fall are the two times of year when spinach is most likely to come to full maturity before bolting.Hot weather will rapidly cause most spinach plants to turn to seed production, which reduces the quality of the leaves for eating purposes.Planting your seeds as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring is the best way to get a full crop before the weather starts to get hot.You can actually plant before the final frost in most areas, but the seeds won’t germinate unless the soil temperature’s above 40, and it may be a slower growth process.If you want to have a consistent harvest and are in an area where a long, cool spring is likely, you can sow more seed every ten days or so to maintain regular new growth.Depending on your typical weather conditions, you can sow fall crows from August through September and harvest well into the latter portion of the year.Those who are in temperate California or other warm environments can actually grow spinach from fall all the way through winter and well into the spring!However, it’s important to note that spinach seeds do not germinate well at soil temperatures above 85 degrees Fahrenheit.Also, pick a location where you can guarantee reasonably cool temperatures for the growing period, as this will help prevent bolting.It can grow in shadier conditions, but it should receive no less than six hours of full sun per day for plant development.Similarly, overly warm conditions will tell your spinach that it’s time to produce seed and prepare to die of heat exhaustion.They can quickly bolt, resulting in bittered leaves and failing plants.You can sometimes provide shade cloth through the heat of the day to reduce the ambient temperature around your plant, but it won’t work for long.The taproot will search deep in the soil for water, but the rest of the roots need moisture too!About 1″ of water per week is ideal for spinach, but in slightly warmer weather you may want to bump that to 1.5″.Once there are four young leaves there, you can add an extra dose of a high-nitrogen liquid fertilizer around the base of your plant.Like many other leafy vegetables, it’s advisable to regularly harvest leaves from the plant to encourage faster and bushier growth.Unlike many other green plants, spinach does not grow from cuttings, as the leaves and stems will not form new roots.Due to the long taproot that the spinach plant produces, it can quickly outgrow any starter containers.The taproot will continue trying to grow downward, and it can spiral around inside its container.Many people prefer to wait until their plant has developed some good leaf growth, but spinach can also be grown as a sprout or as microgreens.You can opt to either cut the stems off slightly below the leaf, or to snip off the entire top of the plant.If you remove all of the leaves, the plant will not grow to maturity, so if you plan to harvest baby spinach, regularly re-sow to maintain steady production.Older spinach plants can be harvested by snipping off the leaves at the stem with a pair of garden scissors.To clean it, fill a large bowl with cool water and place your spinach inside.Dunk it repeatedly under the surface of the water, then gently drain the spinach and refill the bowl.Place the cut ends into a paper towel to help absorb any excess moisture, and store your spinach in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.Removing any excess air from the bag will help reduce the potential of moisture buildup inside, too.Loosely fill your sterilized jars with the wilted greens and add boiling water, leaving about an inch of headspace.As long as you’ve followed the steps mentioned above, you should be able to grow a good crop of spinach.Seeds that are buried too shallowly or too deep can fail to germinate – aim for 1/4″ to 1/2″ planting depth.Finally, keep your soil evenly moist, as too little or too much water can also stop germination.If you plant too close to summertime, it’s common for your spinach to go from seedling to seed stalk without producing many leaves at all.Aphids are also a vector for diseases, and can spread things like spinach blight to your plants.These moth larvae will munch right through the base of young plants, causing them to topple over and die.Common in most gardens, these little guys find spinach to be delicious just like we do, and will chew through leaves and plant stems.This mildew develops in wet or humid weather and can be hard to control.Yellow or white patches may form on the top of leaves, while a greyish fungus appears on the underside.It’s best to avoid downy mildew by ensuring good airflow around your plants and by watering the soil rather than the leaves.A: Most spinach is somewhat cold-hardy and can survive cooler temperatures, but it won’t tolerate hard freezes.Generally, anything below 40 degrees is best protected from the chill in the air, and with a cold frame you can extend your growing season quite a bit.Adding some form of heating element in the cold frame (like a string of lights) may help you grow spinach all the way through the winter months! .
Can we eat spinach stems?
Spinach stems, even of some young leaves, are fibrous, stringy, and difficult to eat, especially after cooking.Remove the stems before washing (see the photo above right); discard them or save them to add to a vegetable stock.Though the stems are still edible, they're a little tough and unpleasant to the taste, and your spinach leaves will be tastier without them.The edible part in spinach is its compact rosette of leaves just before flower stalk formation and central bulb elongation. .